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B.Bailey
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| Joined: | Mon Jan 12th, 2009 |
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Posted: Sun Jul 19th, 2009 05:41 pm |
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A 25' aluminum hull that has a thousand rivets built in 1965. Sandblasted bottom and patched with watertite - 8 coats of the interlux system. Leaks greatly reduced.But it still leaks. Now I'm thinking maybe my toilet setup is the problem. The toilet is slightly above the water line. There are no shut off valves for the thru hull discharge and water intake. I figured since the pipes go above the water line their should be no problem. Maybe I'm wrong. Am I wrong? Hate working on the toilet. It's a messy business. Would like to minimize the leaks. Thanks to whoever has any info.
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repsilon
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| Joined: | Tue Jan 16th, 2007 |
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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 02:44 am |
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| Never could patch my aluminum boat. Fortunately in Hawaii the water was warm, and it made for a great convenient livewell.
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MOBILE MIKE
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| Joined: | Tue Apr 10th, 2007 |
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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 04:22 am |
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Try using "Dura Liner" its a coating they use to spray or roll in the back of truck beds.I think they sell it buy the gallon at the autoparts stores. I know "Rhino Lining" works but you would have to take your boat to a Rhino Liner shop to have them spray it. It comes in different colors and texters. Hope that helps. Mike
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HrdCrFshrmn
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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 06:24 pm |
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| Not sure if this will help you, but to easily find leaks on most small boats you put them on the trailer and start filling them with water. The leaks will be obvious. As for Rhino lining, it's awsome if you can afford it. I have my 14' fiberglass boat rhino lined inside and out. It really absorbs noise and vibration, and makes for a much nicer boat ride.
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B.Bailey
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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 11:58 pm |
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| Thanks for the info. I've considered "Rhino Lining" or "Duro Lining" and may do that when it gets cooler. Also I've got a gallon of "Gluv-it" and thought I could coat the interior. The ouside has a fresh 8 coats of interlux and cut down the leaks quite a bit. The leaks come from a thousand 45 year old rivets so sealing them seems the best way. I really like the idea of a quieter smoother boat ride with the lining stuff.
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No Sniveling
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| Joined: | Thu Oct 27th, 2005 |
| Location: | Rio Rico, Arizona USA |
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Posted: Wed Jul 22nd, 2009 12:17 am |
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I had the cockpit walls and engine cover of No Sniveling coated with Rhino Liner 5 years ago and it is still in perfect condition. I think it cost almost $400, but I wish I had done all of the exposed surfaces - it seems to be bulletproof!
Craig
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Panga68
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| Joined: | Wed Sep 24th, 2008 |
| Location: | Tucson, Arizona USA |
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Posted: Wed Jul 22nd, 2009 02:13 am |
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Bullet proof? Its more than bullet proof. This same product is being used all over the world to make tall building earthquake and bomb proof. I had it on a truck several years back and loved it. The only drawback is that you can't slide stuff in and out of your truck (scuba tanks, outboard motors, Inflatable boats). But on a boat that might be the ticket. Last edited on Wed Jul 22nd, 2009 02:15 am by Panga68
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AcuDoc
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Posted: Mon Jul 27th, 2009 06:07 am |
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I also have a tin boat and hav dealt with a few pinhole leaks here and there. As posted earlier fill the boat with water when it is on the trailer and the leaks will show themselves.
Drain the boat let it dry out a bit. At that point I've found JB Weld to work great. I never thought about the rhino or duraliner. That sounds grat too. But it the leaks aren't really bad $10 verses less then $400 sounds like a winner.
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