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gwbuild
Member
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Posted: Thu Oct 9th, 2008 11:37 pm |
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The Following (below) is a technical climbing topo for Tetakawi, the eastern mountain, north facing routes. Climbs 1 and 2 are on the milky white face visible from the pavement. #3 is to the right of the access trail right before the final scramble thru the 'needle eye'. 4,5 and 6 are on the summit pinnacle.... the 'finger' easily seen from San Carlos Main St.
For a larger image and to print, please click here...
http://www.rocky-road.com/media/tetakawi_topo.jpg
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East Tetakawi, North Face.
From the road, park at km 15. Start hiking toward the rocky peaks and the access trail will become obvious. The hike is mildly strenuous and very steep in places. Expect loose rocky conditions. The North Face is the large flat white rock face visible from the highway.
Typical hiking time to the base of the North Face is 30-50 minutes.
PLEASE NOTE: All climbs on Tetakawi should be approached with caution. There are many loose rocks. Belayers should wear helmets. Always remember to pull DOWN on holds... not OUT.
Left side: At the base of the white rock face, a faint access trail can be seen which
skirts along the lower edge of the face. TUrn off on this trail. About halfway across
the face is the base of #2. Looks for the rock cairn situation in a broken pocket about
10ft above the trail. Climb #1 is all the way on the left side of the rock face, again
marked at the base by a rock cairn
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#1. Dulcinea - 5.8 ***** (FA; Glenn & Devin Wakefield)
This 5-star climb is the best overall route on Tetakawi. 3 short pitches hug the far left
side of the North Face. Climber can view all of San Carlos and nearby bays. This climb offers a great feeling of high exposure.
Pitch 1 (6 bolts), start at the rock cairn on the far east side of the white face, continue moving up and left. Staying as far left as possible not only improves your view, but also offers the best climbing.
Pitch 2 (4 bolts), start under the small overhang and move up. This is the first crux of the climb. Continue to next belay.
Pitch 3 (3bolts), this pitch is rated 5.8 and is unique because of its traverse. Get ready for small holds and creative footwork. You finish on the anchors at the top of #2. This is the best climb on Tetakawi. Enjoy!
Exit this route by rappeling down #2.
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#2. La Vaca que Rie - 5.7R*** (FA; Glenn & Devin Wakefield)
This fun climb is an excellent introduction to climbing Tetakawi and climbs the milky white middle of the North Face (contributing to the name). This climb was originally done as one long pitch, but was broken into 2 pitches for reduction in rope drag and rappeling simplicity. The belayer should be cautious of falling rock and flakes.
Pitch 1 (4bolts), find the large broken area in the middle of the main face marked by a rock cairn. The bolts are hard to see, but look on the steep broken area for the first couple bolts to identify the climb. Move up and slightly left. The bolts are camoflagued well by the uneven surface. First bolt is at about 15'. The pitch2 belay station is on top of a large shelf about 2' wide with double anchors.
Pitch 2 (4bolts), a couple bolts on this climb are run out, but it is easy terrain for the
run-out. The crux is right below the anchors. Stay left of the small tree and enjoy the thin climbing. The final bolt is hidden from below but sits about 5' down and slightly left of the final anchors. 2 Rappels to base.
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#3. Zucaritas - 5.7+ *** (FA; Glenn & Devin Wakefield)
Find this climb on the rock formation to the right of the main access trail. At the base of the rock ridge, head right and down slightly. Looks for the rock cairn that marks the base. 2 pitches.
Pitch 1 offers some exciting climbing that may be harder than it looks. Double bolt Belay is to the right.
Pitch 2, don't touch the tree or you are cheating!. Enjoy challenging face climbing past the first bolt into the corner system above. Climb thru the caves and keep an eye out for the bolts as they are well camoflaged by the uneven surfaces. Final anchors are up over the lip, on top. Walk off around the top very carefully, or 2 rappels to base.
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Summit pinnacle
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#4. Crack - 5.8 ****
Access this climb by finishing the hike to the top, thru the needle, then up to the left on the final finger summit. It is the obvious crack line right up the middle. First ascent unknown. New rappel bolts are at the top for safe descent.
1 pitch. Traditional gear climbing, no bolts. The first 10' or so is harder than it looks. Have your belayer spot you.
Requires an assortment of gear. Be careful of placements as the rock is crumbly. Enjoy the best views on the Sea of Cortez from the top!
Rappel from top. Be careful pulling your rope. The flaky rock face is like velco.
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#5. Gully - 5.7+ **
2 pitches. The base of this climb shares the same start as the crack.
Pitch 1 (5.7+): Find the horizontal bolt line under the small roof and move up and left. The start is harder than it looks. Around the corner (out of view from the belay) is a tree and bolt above the tree. Its a very short pitch, but recommended to belay there for rope drag.
Pitch 2 (5.5)moves up the gully to the top of the pinnacle. Its a bit of a scramble.
Anchors at the top. Rappel back down close to the crack line.
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#6. The Best Earth on Show - 5.7+ *** (FA; G. Wakefield, J. Kokinis)
2 pitches (5.7+). The base of this climb shares the same start as the crack and #5.
Pitch 1: Find the horizontal bolt line under the small roof and move up and left. The start is harder than it looks. Around the corner (out of view from the belay) is a tree and bolt above the tree. Its a very short pitch, but recommended to belay there for rope drag.
Pitch 2 (5.6) moves up and to the right from the tree. Look to the smooth face for bolts. This section is only 5.6, but quite fun. Bolts above the face are hard to see because of the broken rock. Be careful not to pull loose rocks onto your belayer.
Anchors at the top. Rappel back down close to the crack line.
Attachment: tetakawi_topo_small.jpg (Downloaded 132 times)
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