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dusky23
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| Joined: | Fri Feb 15th, 2008 |
| Location: | Colorado |
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Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 06:13 am |
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Can anyone refer a good gel coat shop in SC? I need a new gel coat on the upper portions (above the rub rail) of an older center console and on the deck and was curious if it would be less expensive to do in SC.
We use to fish and dive SC for almost 20 years but haven't been back since my fishing partner got sick and passed. My dad left me the boat and it hasn't been back in the Mar in over a decade and the desert sun has taken it's toll. I would strip off all the railing and hardware and leave for several months for repairs. I'd like to repair it and leave for more frequent use. Any suggestions?
Been reading all the threads and sure looks like the fishery has improved significantly since we trolled our lines through the those beautious waters I fondly remember. Muchisamas gracias!
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Divecoz
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Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 02:10 pm |
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| I am not sure you want to re-gelcoat. It can be done but it is expensive if you want it to look right when its done. There are other processes around depending on what you have to work with, that may in the end give you a FAR superior finish.
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dusky23
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Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 03:12 pm |
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We had an accident unloading the boat several years ago....long story but the result was the boat hitting the launch ramp in too shallow of water. I now have spider cracks in the gelcoat at every penetration along the top of the gunnel...rod holders, railing, etc. Only a few were present after the accident but now they are everywhere and are becoming bigger every year. The cracks don't pose a structural issue but left unattended will worsen with time. Also the floor of the boat has similar cracking in it throughout but is not structural either.
What other processes are you alluding too that will accomplish a repair to these cracks? Thanks.
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ezmony
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Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2008 12:35 pm |
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| Algrip----Sand, fair, and paint with two part Algrip. Much easier than gelcoat.
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Divecoz
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Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2008 01:51 pm |
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I am with ezmony.
Strip your boat of all the surface stuff/ cleats eyes step pads etc.. Check out the condition of all backing plates when your doing this. Clean The Devil Be Gone ( that's all the crap deep inside those cracks)out of it and back cut all the large cracks and really clean out all the lesser cracks. Then fill or fair ( your choice of words) with Marine Tex or west systems ( several choices here as well everyone has his preference) then sand until perfectly smooth, epoxy prime and then. Algrip 2 part is among the best for sure $$$$$ . Others are available as well.
Use 3m 5200 on all thru attachments in fact on all attachments.
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ezmony
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Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2008 02:10 pm |
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| Uhhh I would use 101 vs 5200 for bedding the hardware. You might want to remove it again some time.
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Divecoz
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Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2008 04:02 pm |
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ezmony wrote: Uhhh I would use 101 vs 5200 for bedding the hardware. You might want to remove it again some time.
Of Coarse you are right about the 5200 but if the nuts ever did fall off you could still lift the boat by the cleats hahahahahaha.
Yes ezmony is right 5200 it welding in a tube hahahaha
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dusky23
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Posted: Mon Feb 18th, 2008 03:17 am |
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| Thanks for the info. One question.....how does the finished product look? Are the repairs noticeable or does one have to look closely to see the differences? Thanks again.
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ezmony
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Posted: Mon Feb 18th, 2008 01:11 pm |
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There are way too many variables to answer that question.
How much money are you willing to throw at this project would be a big one.
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Divecoz
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Posted: Mon Feb 18th, 2008 02:01 pm |
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ezmony wrote: There are way too many variables to answer that question.
How much money are you willing to throw at this project would be a big one.
ezmony and I are agreeing a lot on this one .
Toooooooo many variables! I have seen hundreds and was even involved in a few myself that looked Factory Fresh.
But I have seen some that looked ugly as a bowl full of mashed a-- holes.
I try to remind everyone, you can pay some Robber Baron at a Marina or a Paint Shop $100 or more an hour for work you have done . But what your often going to get will be reflected by how much HE pays the guy who does the work.
Its also very sad to say but it is totally acceptable for there to be In Mexico . . . .a Gringo price and a locals price.
Dont try that on this side of the border, unless you want to see 2000 Mexicans marching with babies in arms and protesting in front of your place of business.
TV Cameras from around the world and maybe even an appearance by the Governor. Hahahahaha
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dusky23
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Posted: Tue Feb 19th, 2008 03:02 am |
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I was afraid of the response I was going to get and I got it. I'm pretty handy and will work something till I get it right but this job may require more time than I have. I may try an area that is not as visible first as a test piece. I would consider investing a grand in a turn key job and if the repairs look like new when finished. I don't think the ROI would justify spending more and improve any particular experience.
On the upside of doing the work myself, the boat was an investment 25 years ago but today would return much less in its current condition so like an old beater truck you can live with some dings and scratches, just as long as it doesn't take on water. The boat is a 23' Dusky center console with a large console that had a head in it. The hull can handle most conditions in and around SC but can be a wet ride with a head wind. We have been all the way across to Isla Tortuga and back in a very long day of fishing. Saw a Japaneze longliner on that day pilfering the game fish we sought. I think the Mexican government has since run them out of there and the fishery sure seems to being doing much better. I do want to get the boat repaired and down to SC and may leave it there in the hopes to get down more often.
Thanks for the input and support.
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Charlie
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Posted: Wed Feb 20th, 2008 08:32 pm |
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Imron is another choice, available widely here at Dupont paint dealers. Some claim it's easier to work with than AwlGrip.
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Jimmy
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Posted: Wed Feb 20th, 2008 08:49 pm |
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There are some good craftsman here in SC. It's just a process of finding them. There used to be a lot of work done on watercraft at Marina Seca, you might check with them.
As with all things, you get what you pay for.
Last edited on Wed Feb 20th, 2008 08:57 pm by Jimmy
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Divecoz
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Posted: Wed Feb 20th, 2008 08:54 pm |
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Imron among others will give you admirable results DEPENDING on your ability . I would SAH hope someone charging you for shooting your boat could in fact shoot any product he offered you. Imron is BTW IMHO too touchy for a first time shooter.
However!
There are numerous Cross Polymer Coatings ( DuPont R&M Sherwin they all have them now, some still call these paint but they truly are not ) that you as a DIYS guy could shoot and you have the option of wet sanding and buffing any mistakes. Should you decide to shoot your own , here is just one of a Bazillion tricks to remember. IF you cause a run ( they dont happen for no reason btw) Just grab a roll of masking tape and strip off a piece longer than the drip or run. Holding it fairly daught by each end us it to lightly touch and there by Pick Up the run from the surface so to speak. Then either light spray to cover or later after it dry's wet sand and buff.
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o-show
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Posted: Fri Feb 22nd, 2008 08:16 pm |
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| Go to bateau.com and visit their bulders forum section. Post the question in their "paint" section and the members will give you all the info you would ever want about painting a boat. Good Luck.
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